What to Check Before Buying a Used Car

Buying a used car is exciting since it feels like you’re getting a bargain with a tiny bit of gambling mixed in. The good news is you can stack the odds in your favour by checking the car properly before you hand over any money.

Naturally, checking that the used car you’re about to purchase is in great nick is the most important part of the whole process. Skip these checks, and you risk buying into hidden mechanical faults, safety problems or a “cheap” car that suddenly needs expensive repairs.

You’ll learn what these checks include throughout this guide - starting with the documents and the car’s background. Then it’s the car itself, working from the outside in. After that, it’s about going under the bonnet and finishing with a proper test drive and professional inspection.

Why Should You Check a Used Car Before Buying?

When people say “it drove fine on the day”, what they often mean is it moved, it stopped and nothing exploded in the first five minutes. A lot of issues don’t show themselves until the car is warm, or until you hit a pothole or until you try a full-lock turn in a car park.

And some problems won’t show themselves at all unless you check the car’s paperwork properly, because the trouble is legal or financial rather than mechanical.

Say, for instance, you find a nice-looking hatchback online. The seller seems decent, you like the colour and the price is tempting. But you don’t check the MOT history, you don’t compare the VIN to the V5C and you probably don’t run a proper provenance check.

A week later, you might notice that the tyres are worn oddly, or maybe the car pulls slightly under braking. Before you know it, the next MOT is full of advisories that were there last year too.

Even worse, imagine it turns out there’s outstanding finance. At that point, you’re not arguing about a squeaky suspension bush, and it’s actually a car you might lose.

Buying a car should feel exciting, but a dodgy purchase turns it into constant low-level worry: “Is that noise new?” “Should that light be on?” “What if it breaks down on the school run?”

• Ensure the Car Is Safe for Driving: Nothing else matters if the car isn’t safe. When you check properly, you’re looking for signs of worn tyres, brake issues, steering oddities, warning lights that stay on or poor repairs that could compromise the structure.
• Prevent High Repair Costs in the Future: Assume that any used car is probably going to need something soon - tyres, brakes, a service - then use your checks to work out what’s fair and what’s a red flag. When you review the MOT history, look at service records and pay attention on the test drive, you’re often spotting expensive problems early enough to either negotiate or walk away.
• Make an Informed and Confident Decision: When you’ve checked the paperwork and looked over the car properly, as well as driven it in a way that tests the basics, you stop guessing. You either buy knowing what you’re getting, or you leave knowing you avoided a mess.
• Avoid Hidden Mechanical Problems: Look, sellers aren’t always dishonest, but they’re not always aware either. A car can be “fine” for short trips and still have issues that show up on longer drives. Your job is to recreate real ownership in a short window: cold start, warm running, proper braking, proper steering feel and a scan for leaks and odd smells.

What Documents Should You Check Before Buying a Used Car?

Start with the paperwork because it tells you whether the car’s legit, roadworthy and actually the seller’s to sell. Fortunately, a lot of these basics are fairly straightforward, since you just need the V5C log book, the MOT history and the VIN matching across the car and the documents.

Add in service records and a quick sense-check of the seller’s identity, and you’ll massively reduce the chance of legal or financial problems after purchase.

• Verify the V5C Registration Document: The V5C (log book) matters because it links the vehicle to a registered keeper and shows key details like registration, make, model and the date the log book was issued. So, you’re best off checking that the V5C is present and looks genuine before comparing the vehicle details to what’s in front of you and checking that the seller’s details line up with what you’re being told. If the seller says “one owner from new”, but the V5C issue date is from last month and they can’t explain it, that’s your cue to dig a bit deeper before you even look at the paintwork.
• Review the MOT History for Past Issues: The MOT is the UK’s roadworthiness test, and the history is gold because it shows patterns. Use the official GOV.UK service to check past results: passes, failures, advisories and recorded mileage. You’re looking for repeat advisories like “oil leak” year after year, or tyres repeatedly flagged or corrosion that keeps coming back. And look, one advisory isn’t always a deal-breaker, but a consistent theme often is, so reviewing the MOT in its entirety is your next step before committing to anything.
• Cross-Check the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN): The VIN is the car’s unique ID. You want it to match across the car and the paperwork, so you know the vehicle hasn’t been “ringed” or misrepresented. You can find the VIN on the car itself, usually just at the base of the windscreen or on a door pillar, so make sure it matches with the VIN shown on documents like the V5C. If anything doesn’t match exactly, that’s a hard stop until it’s explained. This is part of confirming the vehicle’s identity, not just ticking a box.
• Confirm the Seller’s Identity and Ownership: You’re not being nosy here, you’re just protecting yourself. The goal is to make sure the person selling has the legal right to sell. Start with the V5C: does the name and address match what the seller tells you? Then ask for reasonable supporting proof if anything feels off (for a private sale, something as simple as seeing a matching driving licence can help). If they claim they’re selling on behalf of someone else, be extra cautious because that’s where a lot of people try to scam you.
• Check for Service History and Maintenance Records: Service records tell you whether the car’s been looked after, and they also help you predict what’s coming next. You want to see evidence of regular servicing at sensible intervals, plus proof of any bigger-ticket maintenance if it applies to that model (for example, timing belt replacement where relevant). Just in general, look for consistency, so that’s dates and mileage that make sense, stamps that don’t look randomly spaced, invoices that show what was done - all that. It usually means fewer nasty surprises.

How Do You Check a Used Car’s History?

You check a used car’s history so you can see the things you can’t just check with your eyes. So that’s everything from previous write-offs and outstanding finance to a theft record. You’d never know the kind of complicated past a clean-looking car can have if you don’t verify it, and that past can land on your doorstep.

Fortunately, there is no shortage of tools out there to give us a hand, like vehicle history check services alongside the official GOV.UK vehicle information tools. That GOV.UK route is probably the most handy, since you can confirm key facts like MOT status and dates - the history check is more for just finance and insurance markers (obviously still important, though).

• Perform an HPI Check for Hidden Issues: An HPI-style history check is where you find hidden problems like outstanding finance, insurance write-off categories or whether the vehicle has been reported stolen. The process is simple: you enter the registration (and sometimes the VIN), pay for the report and then read the results carefully rather than just looking for a big green tick. If it flags finance, don’t accept “that’ll clear later” - you actually need proof it’s settled before you buy. If it flags an insurance write-off, you’ll want the details and you’ll want to decide if you’re comfortable with that.
• Look for Any Recorded Stolen Vehicle Reports: This one’s crucial because if you buy a stolen car, you can lose the car and the money. It’s that blunt. Checking via a history report is a common route, and GOV.UK also suggests that you should verify the log book and vehicle details as part of your whole “before you buy” process. Look, vehicle-related theft is a real, tracked category in UK crime data, so treating this check as optional just isn’t worth it.
• Verify the Number of Previous Owners: You actually get a good indication of how stable the car’s life has been by checking the number of previous owners. Essentially, fewer owners usually just means the car was kept longer and maintained more consistently. Although that’s not a guarantee. You can usually see the keeper count on the V5C, and some history checks summarise it too. If a car has had a lot of owners in a short space of time, ask why! Sometimes it’s harmless, like a car that was flipped by traders, but it can also suggest ongoing issues people got fed up with.
• Research the Car’s Service and Repair History: This is where you join the dots. Service records show routine care, and repair records show how problems were handled. Look for evidence of sensible preventative maintenance, not just “fix it when it breaks”. If the seller claims major work was done, for example, you’ve got to ask for invoices that actually show dates, mileage and the garage details. It sounds like a lot, but you’re being irresponsible if you buy without that info. If nothing else, it just gives you confidence that the car’s reliability isn’t based on wishful thinking.

What Should You Check on the Exterior of a Used Car?

Start with the outside because it’s the first place you’re going to see signs of neglect or any other previous accidents. You’re best off walking around the car slowly and not getting distracted by shiny tyres or a freshly washed body.

You’re really looking for visible damage, so that’s uneven panel gaps, rust spots, maybe paint that doesn’t match from one panel to the next. After that, move to the functional items like tyres, lights, mirrors and windows. You essentially just want to check whether the car’s story matches its condition.

For instance, if the seller says “never been in an accident” but one side has newer-looking paint and slightly different texture, that’s a sign something probably happened.

• Inspect for Dents, Scratches, and Rust: Look along the panels at a shallow angle. Dents and ripples show up better that way. You’re also looking to check wheel arches and sills for rust, and don’t forget the bottom edges of doors.
• Check for Consistent Paintwork: Mismatched paint? Probably due to repairs, so pay attention to overspray around trims and seals, or paint lines that look a bit rough.
• Examine the Tires for Wear and Tear: Uneven wear’s usually your sign that there are alignment problems or suspension wear. This is also where you’d check that the tyre brands and tread depth are suitable for the car.
• Test the Lights, Mirrors, and Windows: Does every light work? Including the indicators and brake lights? Also, make sure you check mirrors for cracks, and make sure windows go up and down smoothly without any weird crunching noises.

What Should You Inspect Inside a Used Car?

Inside the car is where you find out how it’s been treated day-to-day. And no, you can’t just prove the car is perfect just because it’s got a clean interior, but what it does tell you is that the seller’s looked after it.

So, focus on everything from wear and electronics to the safety features. Basically, try everything you can while stationary, because it’s awkward to realise you’ve got a broken air con or dodgy window switch after you’ve bought it.

• Check the Upholstery, Seats, and Dashboard for Wear: Look for tears or heavy shine on high-touch surfaces. Even cracks on the dashboard. And try to match the wear to the stated mileage.
• Test the Electronics: What’s the air conditioning and heating like? Same goes for the radio, infotainment, parking sensors, electric windows and central locking. If something’s even a little bit off, assume it’ll get worse.
• Look for Signs of Water Damage or Leaks: Everything from damp smells and fogged-up headlamps to mouldy carpets or water lines in the boot tells you that there were probably some leaks, so try to check under mats instead of just on top.
• Test the Seatbelts and Safety Features: You’re best off pulling the seatbelts fully out and letting them retract - they should lock when you tug them sharply. And see if the airbag lights behave normally on start-up (you don’t want them to be permanently on or even absent entirely).

What Should You Check Under the Bonnet?

You really don’t need to be a technician to do useful checks under the bonnet - you’re mainly looking for neglect, leaks and other sorts of warning signs. Now, you’ll want to do it with the engine cold if possible, because fresh leaks and cold-start behaviour tell you a lot.

Once you’re under there, check oil and fluids and look for any corrosion. You’ll also want to look at the belts and hoses. And in general, just try to be alert to anything that looks newly cleaned in one small area, like someone’s tried to hide a leak.

For example, if the engine bay is spotless but there’s some oily residue low down near the radiator or under the engine, ask what’s been leaking and why it’s been cleaned, because that’s not normal!

• Inspect Engine Oil Levels and Fluid Conditions: Pull the dipstick and check oil level and colour. Look at the coolant level as well. Milky residue is a huge red flag here.
• Look for Leaks or Corrosion: Have a look around the engine, as well as under reservoirs and near hose joints. If you see any corrosion around battery terminals, it tells you the owner hasn’t really maintained it well.
• Check the Engine Components: Look at belts and hoses for any kinds of cracks or fraying. Yeah, a perished hose is cheap, but it can cause an expensive breakdown.
• Test the Battery and Electrical Systems: Check for corrosion, and ask about battery age if it looks old.
• Check the Timing Belt or Chain: If the car uses a timing belt, ask when it was last replaced - you can see if they’re telling the truth in the service records. If it’s a chain, listen for rattling on a cold start during the test drive phase.

What Should You Look for During a Test Drive?

Your goal here is pretty simple: see how it behaves in real conditions so you can spot problems that won’t show up when it’s parked.

Now, do a mix of roads if you can - slower streets for bumps and seeing how the steering feels, then faster roads for stability. And obviously, keep the radio off for part of the drive so you can listen properly.

A car can feel fine at 30 mph, then maybe end up giving you a steering wobble at 60 mph because of wheel balance or suspension wear.

• Evaluate the Brakes for Responsiveness and Noise: The brakes should feel nice and firm and progressive. You’ve also got to listen for squealing or grinding.
• Assess the Acceleration and Handling: Acceleration should feel smooth instead of hesitant. And the handling should feel predictable - not floaty or twitchy.
• Listen for Unusual Noises or Vibrations: Clunks over bumps? Whining noises that rise with speed or vibrations through the wheel? These are the sorts of clues you shouldn't ignore.
• Test Steering, Suspension, and Gear Shifts: Needless to say, steering should centre naturally, and suspension shouldn’t crash over potholes. Gears should engage cleanly, and the clutch bite point should feel normal rather than “on/off”.

What Final Checks Should You Make Before Finalising Your Used Car Purchase?

Almost there, but before you do pay, do one last sweep to make sure the price, paperwork and vehicle status all stack up. This is very much the moment to be fussy, because once money changes hands, your leverage drops fast (especially in a private sale).

So, you’ll want to make sure that the deal makes sense for the car’s condition and ensure you’ve got the right documents, as well as verify tax status and maybe one final drive if anything has changed since the first viewing. As mentioned earlier, GOV.UK provides official services to check vehicle details and tax/MOT information, so use them instead of whatever screenshots the seller wants to show you.

• Confirm the Price Is Fair Based on the Car’s Condition: Naturally, you need to compare it against similar listings (adjusting for condition and history, of course). If the tyres are near the limit or there’s a service due immediately, that should influence what you pay.
• Ensure All Necessary Paperwork Is in Order: You want the V5C details to make sense, the MOT history to align with the car and service records to support the seller’s claims. If anything is missing, treat it as a cost or a risk.
• Verify the Vehicle’s Road Tax Status: As mentioned, you can easily see whether a vehicle is taxed using the GOV.UK service. It takes minutes and helps you spot odd situations, like a car that’s been SORN’d but is somehow being “daily driven”.
• Take One Last Test Drive: Especially if the car has been sat for a while, or if you viewed it quickly the first time. If you didn’t see anything on the first drive because you were a bit excited, you’ll probably notice those smaller issues on the second drive.
• Consider Buying from Trusted Car Auctions or Trade Auctions: Comfortable with the auction process and know the risks? Car auctions can offer decent value, but the key is to treat auction cars as “buy with your eyes open” purchases - do your checks and budget for whatever immediate maintenance needs doing.