How Much Does it Cost to Buy Back a Written-Off Car?

If your car’s been written off and you’re thinking about buying it back, you’re probably wondering how much it’s going to cost.

When an insurer writes off a vehicle, they take ownership and offer you a payout based on its pre-accident market value. But they’ll also give you the option to buy it back, usually for the amount they think they could recover by selling it as salvage.

That price varies. There are repairs, inspections, admin fees and future resale value to consider.

In this article, we’ll demystify everything for you.

What is a written-off car?

A written-off car is one that an insurance company decides isn’t worth repairing after an accident, flood, fire or theft recovery. That doesn’t always mean the car is a total wreck. It just means the cost to fix it outweighs what it’s worth.

Understanding write-off categories

In the UK, write-offs fall into four categories:

• Category A: Must be scrapped. Nothing can be salvaged.
• Category B: Can be broken for parts, but the shell must be scrapped.
• Category S: Structurally damaged but repairable. Can legally go back on the road after proper repairs and re-registration.
• Category N: Non-structural damage (like electrics, trim, or suspension). Also repairable and roadworthy once fixed, but does not have to be re-registered.

If your car falls into Cat S or Cat N, you may be able to buy it back from your insurer and repair it for less than the payout would cost you to replace it. That’s where the buy-back process comes in.

Common reasons cars are written off

According to DVLA data, 562,165 vehicles were written off in 2024. Every year prior, there’s been an upward trend — more and more write-offs happen every year.

A significant portion of them are not because of catastrophic crashes, though. Here are the most common reasons insurers decide to write off a vehicle:

• Collision damage: Even a moderate crash can result in high repair bills. If parts like airbags, suspension, or panels need replacing, the cost can quickly exceed the car’s market value.
• Flood damage: Water can wreck electrical systems and interior components. If a car’s been submerged, even briefly, insurers often deem it uneconomical to fix.
• Fire damage: Fires don’t have to be extensive to result in a write-off. Smoke damage, melted wiring and scorched interiors are usually enough.
• Theft recovery: If a stolen car is found damaged or stripped, the repair cost (or the time it’s been missing) might lead the insurer to write it off.
• Minor damage + low value: Sometimes, a car is mechanically fine but not worth enough to justify repairs. A dented door and side panel on a £1,000 car can be all it takes.

Can you always buy back a written-off car?

Buying back a written-off car isn’t always an option. It depends on two key things: the write-off category and your insurer’s policy.

You can only buy back cars written off as Category S or Category N. These are legally repairable and can be returned to the road. If your car is Category A or B, it’s either too dangerous or too badly damaged. By law, you can’t buy it back or drive it again.

Even with Cat S and Cat N cars, not all insurers offer a buy-back. Some will automatically take the vehicle and send it to auction or salvage. Others may offer to deduct the salvage value from your payout and let you keep the car.

If you want to buy it back, you’ll need to tell your insurer immediately after they declare it a total loss. Once the vehicle is passed to a salvage agent, it’s too late.

Costs involved in buying back a salvage car

If you're thinking about buying back a written-off car, here’s a full picture of the costs you’ll likely face, from the initial buy-back to getting it road-ready again.

1. Buy-back price from the insurer

This is the price you’ll pay to keep the car after it’s been declared a total loss. It’s calculated as:

Pre-accident market value – Salvage value = Your payout

If you want the car back, the salvage value is deducted from the payout. Let’s say your car was worth £10,000 and the salvage value is £3,000:

• You get £7,000.
• You keep the car.
• That £3,000 is your “buy-back” cost.

Salvage values typically fall between 20% and 40% of the car’s market value.

2. Repair costs

Repair bills vary massively based on the type of damage as well as the type of car you drive. According to data from Selsia Vehicle Accident Centres, repair costs increased across the board by 6.7% in 2024.

A few rough averages across the UK:

• Minor bodywork: £100 to £1000+
• Bumper or panel replacement: £200 to £1,200 per panel
• Airbag replacement: £200 to £700, up to £2,000+
• Suspension repairs: £100 to £600, £1,000+ for full system

Labour rates also vary. According to insights from Checkatrade, mechanics charge anywhere between £25 to £80 per hour on average. In more expensive areas (like Central London), that figure might get well over £100.

As for the parts, you can source them new (more reliable, more expensive) or salvage (cheaper, but may have wear or compatibility issues).

3. Inspection and re-certification fees

For Category S cars, you will have to prove roadworthiness before re-registering. The two main costs are:

• MOT retest: Up to £54.85 (standard fee).
• Structural integrity report: £100 to £250 from a certified body repair specialist.

Only qualified garages or engineers with structural assessment credentials can legally sign off on the structural integrity report.

4. Road tax and insurance

Road tax doesn’t change based on write-off status, but insurance does. You can insure a Cat N or Cat S car, but it will be more expensive because insurers see write-offs as riskier. Not to mention, some mainstream insurers may refuse cover, so you might need to use a specialist insurer who handles salvage titles.

It’s a good idea to get multiple quotes right away, before you commit to a buy-back.

5. Re-registration and V5C logbook

If the insurer reported the car as a total loss, you will need to update or replace the logbook if it’s a Cat S car. The replacement V5C logbook costs £25 and it’s handled through the DVLA, either by post or online, depending on the paperwork involved.

6. Vehicle history report

To prepare for resale in the future (assuming you don’t want to keep it for yourself), don’t even bother without paying for the history check.

• HPI Check: £10 to £20
• AutoCheck (Experian): £6 to £12

This is what verifies the write-off category, repair history, outstanding finance and whether the car’s been stolen or cloned. You’ll fetch a higher sale price if you’re equipped with this info.

Hidden or unexpected expenses

Now… things can still get expensive, even if you think you’ve budgeted properly.

Towing and transport costs

If the car isn’t roadworthy, you’ll need to arrange transport from the recovery yard or insurer’s holding facility.

• Local recovery: £50 to £150
• Long-distance transport: £1.00 to £3.00 per mile

Flatbed hire or private recovery operators charge more for short-notice or weekend jobs. And since you’re doing a buy-back, insurers almost never cover this. If you delay, you might also run into...

Daily storage fees

Recovery yards and insurer-contracted depots usually give you 48 to 72 hours to collect the vehicle. After that, you could be charged £20 to £40 per day in storage fees. If there’s any paperwork delay (e.g. waiting on payout or salvage agreement), these charges stack up quick.

Diagnostic and strip-down costs

Superficial damage can hide electrical, engine or suspension issues. You won’t find out until the car is on a lift. Pre-repair diagnostics cost £60 to £150. Strip-down to uncover hidden damage run you £200+. ECU or sensor faults might require specialist testing and software resets.

And once the car’s in bits, you're committed.

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Unexpected labour time

Body shops will quote based on what they can see. But once they open it up, they might need extra hours.

Bent brackets, seized bolts, or damaged wiring looms? That’s another 5 to 10 hours of labour. Poor access to internal panels can double the time for what seemed like a quick job. If frame alignment is off, expect days, not hours, for structural correction.
Every extra hour adds £50 to £150, depending on the shop.

Delays = downtime costs

If the car’s your daily driver, not having it costs you time and money. The costs of missed work, travel disruption and paying for Ubers alone might make this a bad deal for you. Some insurers offer courtesy cars, but again, usually not if you buy the car back
Add up the cost of being without a vehicle for 2 to 4 weeks or more.

Parts availability issues

If your car is a rare spec, imported or older model, sourcing parts might delay repairs. Some may be on backorder for weeks. You might need to buy parts from breakers or overseas, even if that means taking a gamble on condition or compatibility. Also, salvage parts void workmanship guarantees at most repair shops.

DVLA processing delays

Re-registering a Cat S car or correcting logbook issues can take weeks if forms go missing or are flagged for manual review. During that time, you can’t sell, tax or sometimes even insure the car. No driving until the paperwork clears.

Cost comparison table

Total estimate (all-in): £2,500 to £12,000+

Of course, this depends heavily on the damage type, the car’s value, and how much work you outsource.

When it makes financial sense to buy it back

As any experienced trader will tell you, it comes down to math, market knowledge, and condition. Here are the situations where the numbers usually work in your favour:

The damage is mostly cosmetic.

If your car’s been written off due to surface-level issues like dents, scratched panels, or bumper damage but is still mechanically sound, you’re in a strong position. You might be able to handle cosmetic repairs cheaply, and some aren’t even necessary for the functional aspect of the car.

If the numbers are right, it could be back on the road for less than the payout would get you in a replacement vehicle.
You know a trusted mechanic (or are handy yourself).

If you’ve got access to mates’ rates or you're capable of tackling basic repairs and part replacements, you eliminate the biggest cost: labour. Buying salvage parts and fitting them yourself keeps costs low.

The car has strong sentimental or market value.

Some cars are worth more to you than they are on paper.

If it's rare, modified, or highly spec’d, the market replacement might be miles more expensive than your payout. If it’s one-owner, FSH, low mileage, or unusually well-maintained, you know the car’s history — and that’s worth a lot. For enthusiasts, keeping the vehicle avoids the cost and risk of sourcing a lesser alternative.

Or maybe, you just really love that car. Maybe you named it. Maybe you have good memories in it and don’t want to see it go yet. That’s perfectly reasonable, too.

It’s a Cat N write-off.

Cat N cars are the easiest to justify financially. There’s no frame damage, no alignment issues, and no need for inspection reports. Insurers often write these off for trivial issues. They’re usually faster to repair and easier to reinsure. You just have to be aware of the fact that non-structural damage won’t be immediately visible and requires a closer inspection.

You can make a profit flipping it.

If you know how to spot a deal, you can buy it back, fix it and resell at a margin. This is particularly true for in-demand models and low-mileage vehicles with cosmetic damage. Salvage buyers and small traders do this daily. Just be transparent about the write-off status when selling.

When you should walk away instead

There are a few non-negotiables in this space. Sometimes, it’s actually impossible to buy back a write-off due to the legality. Others are simply illogical decisions. In the following situations, just take the money and move on:

The car is a Cat A or Cat B write-off.

This is non-negotiable. Cat A cars must be scrapped (no parts, no resale, no exceptions). Cat B cars can be broken for parts, but the shell must be destroyed. You can’t drive it again legally. If it’s labelled Cat A or B, you’re wasting time even asking about a buy-back. Insurance companies won’t do it.

The damage is structural and/or expensive.

Cat S cars with frame, chassis, or suspension damage might be repairable, but not affordably. Structural repairs require specialist equipment. Misalignment can cause long-term tyre wear, steering issues and resale problems. Labour costs multiply quickly when welding, cutting or jigging is involved.

The same goes for any kind of damage that’s expensive to fix. Examples of this include electrical system damage or water ingress, chassis or alignment issues (which affect drivability and long-term reliability) and airbag deployment (which, in addition to being expensive, leads to ECU issues).

Insurance is difficult or overpriced.

If you can’t find a single mainstream insurer willing to cover it at a reasonable price, that’s a major red flag. Specialist policies tend to have limited cover or higher excess. You may also lose access to add-ons like courtesy cars, breakdown cover and agreed-value policies. If you can’t fully protect the asset affordably, don’t own it.

Resale value will take a significant hit.

Even if the car looks perfect post-repair, it’ll always show up as a write-off on HPI checks. Some buyers simply won’t touch Cat S/N vehicles. Others will expect a deep discount. It’ll also take longer to sell or attract tyre-kickers looking for leverage. 

If you’re not planning to keep the car long-term, resale pain might outweigh the short-term savings. And unless you’re dealing with a newer car that’s got an otherwise perfect history, your margins will probably be slim.

The repair process is a black box.

If you can’t get a clear quote, part availability is unknown or diagnostics haven’t been done, there’s the risk of hidden faults. Delays (storage, transport, missed work) also increase costs and repair shops may have to charge you far more once they see the true extent of the damage.

Tips to save money during the process

As motor traders who do this kind of thing every day, we’re here to tell you buying back a written-off car doesn’t have to cost a fortune. You’ve just got to play it smart. Here are proven ways to keep your costs down without cutting corners:

• Get multiple repair quotes.
• Use DVLA-approved repair garages.
• Don’t pay for repairs you can safely and easily DIY.
• Source OEM parts from salvage yards (30-70% cheaper).
• Consider a SORN or laid-up insurance if you're not ready to drive it right away.
• Document everything from damage photos to invoices (in preparation for eventual resale).

Also ask your insurer for an itemised breakdown. You’re entitled to know how they calculated your payout and the salvage deduction, and this can help you negotiate a better buy-back price.

Can I drive a Cat S car after repairs?

Yes, you can legally drive a Cat S car after repairs, but only once it’s been properly repaired, re-registered and insured.

The car must be:

• Fully repaired to a roadworthy standard (including structural damage).
• Inspected for structural integrity by a qualified professional.
• Re-registered with the DVLA (you’ll need to send off the logbook and get the V5C updated).
• MOT’d if the current certificate is invalid or expired.
• Taxed and insured, just like any other car.

The bottom line

Buying back a written-off car can save you money, but only if you know exactly what you're doing.
It’s not just about getting a car back for less; it’s about calculating every cost, from repairs and inspections to insurance and resale value. Sometimes the numbers work out beautifully. Others, you’re buying into a money pit.
If the damage is light, the buy-back price is fair and you’ve got trusted repair options lined up, it can be a smart move. But if there’s any doubt, walk away. There’s no shortage of used cars out there without the baggage.