Every Document You Need to Buy a Car in the UK (2025)

Buying a car is exciting, but if you don’t have the right paperwork, it can turn into a headache fast. Whether you're buying privately or through a dealer, you'll need to bring a few key documents with you and double-check that the seller hands over the right ones too.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly what paperwork you need before, during, and after the purchase, so you can drive away legally and with peace of mind.

Documents to prepare before you even start browsing

Before you scroll through listings or step onto a dealer forecourt, make sure you’ve got a valid UK driving licence, proof of address and identity, insurance quotes or policy documents and, if you’re financing the purchase, bank statements and payslips.

Valid UK driving licence

You legally can't drive without one, plain and simple. If you’re buying a car, this is the baseline requirement. You’ll also need it to test-drive the car and get insured.

Proof of identity and address

You’ll need these when registering the car in your name. A utility bill, council tax statement or bank letter usually does the trick. Make sure they’re recent (dated within the last 3 months), or else they won’t be acceptable.

Insurance quotes or policy documents

You can’t legally drive a car away without valid insurance, even after buying it. Get quotes in advance, or better yet, arrange a policy to start the day you plan to collect the car. That way, you won’t have to deal with phone calls and paperwork at the point of sale.

Bank statements and payslips (if using car finance)

If you're going the finance route, lenders will want to see proof of income and affordability. Have your last 3 months’ worth of payslips and bank statements ready if you want to qualify for a car loan.

Documents you’ll receive and check during the car buying process

Once you’re serious about buying a car, you’re going to want to go through some key documents before handing over any money. These are how you register the car in your name, prove its history and maintenance quality and record the sale.

V5C logbook (vehicle registration certificate)

The V5C logbook is the single most important document in any car sale. It proves who the registered keeper is and confirms the car is officially recorded with the DVLA.

Here’s what to check:

• The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), registration number and colour match the car.
• The registered keeper’s name and address match the seller’s (if buying privately).
• Special notes, like the # of previous owners, write-off category or import/export history.
• There are no spelling errors or signs of tampering.

The seller will fill out section 2 (new keeper details) and give you the green “new keeper” slip (section 6). They’ll also register the sale online.

MOT certificate (for cars used cars older than three years)

You don’t need a paper MOT certificate anymore because everything’s stored digitally. But you do need to check the MOT status and history before you buy.

Go to the Car.co.uk MOT history and MOT status checkers and enter the registration number. You’ll be able to see:

• Whether the car has a valid MOT
• When it expires
• Advisories or fails from previous tests

This gives you insight into how well the car has been maintained and whether it’s likely to need work soon. If the car has a long list of advisories or fails MOTs often, think twice.

Pro tip: For peace of mind, only buy cars with a current, valid MOT unless you're comfortable arranging pickup (you cannot legally drive a car without a valid MOT), testing immediately after purchase and potentially paying for repairs.

Service history and receipts

If you’re buying a used car, particularly one that’s older, has prior accident damage or has a salvage title, the service history is crucial. It shows you how well the car’s been maintained over time. Oil changes, timing belt replacements, brake jobs and major repairs will be recorded here.

You want to see:

• Stamps in the service book
• Receipts or invoices from garages
• A consistent record of maintenance at proper intervals

No history isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker, but it should raise questions and could affect resale value later.

Bill of sale or purchase invoice

The bill of sale is your written proof that the transaction took place. It should include:

• Buyer and seller’s names and addresses
• The car’s make, model, reg number and VIN
• The agreed price and payment method
• The sale date and both signatures

It protects both parties in the case of a dispute and gives you a paper trail for tax, insurance and ownership purposes.

Vehicle inspection report (optional, but smart)

Getting an independent inspection (or at least a basic vehicle history check) is one of the best moves you can make. Services like HPI Check or AutoCheck cost around £10-30 and tell you:

• If the car has outstanding finance
• Whether it’s been written off
• If it’s been stolen
• Mileage discrepancies
• Number of previous owners

It’s a small cost that’ll save you from a massive mistake if you end up uncovering something sketchy. Doesn’t matter if the seller seems trustworthy, don’t skip this step.

Note: If you’re buying a new car, the process is a lot more straightforward. You’ll be the vehicle’s first registered keeper, so there will be no history or existing documents to worry about.

Documents required if you’re applying for car finance or leasing

Most of us aren’t dropping the full amount upfront. If you’re taking out a loan, signing up for PCP or leasing a vehicle, you’ll need to prove you can afford the monthly payments. That means handing over a few extra documents before you get approved.

Proof of income and employment

Lenders need to see that you’ve got a steady income. You’ll usually be asked for the last 3 months’ payslips, recent bank statements and a P60 or tax return. This shows them you're not a risk and helps them determine how much you can borrow.

Proof of residency status (for non-UK nationals)

If you’re not a UK citizen, you’ll need to show your legal right to live and work in the country. That could be a visa or residency permit, a biometric residence card or any documents that confirm your settled or pre-settled status. Without these, finance providers probably won’t approve the agreement.

UK credit report

You won’t have to bring this yourself, it’s something the lender will pull. But it’s worth checking your credit score ahead of time so you’re not blindsided. You can use services like Experian, Equifax or ClearScore to see where you stand.

A stronger credit score = better chances of approval and lower interest rates.

Final handover: what you should take home after the purchase

Once the deal is done and the keys are in your hand, you aren’t 100% out of th woods yet. There are still a few things that you have to do before you’re able to drive off with your fresh new ride.

V5C new keeper slip (if buying used)

If you’re buying a used car, the seller should give you the green “new keeper” slip (V5C/2). The DVLA will then post you the updated V5C within 2-4 weeks. Or, if the seller registered it for you online, you’ll receive it in 3-5 working days.

Didn’t get it in the mail? You’ll need to contact the DVLA or apply for a replacement using Form V62.

Invoice or receipt of purchase

This should clearly show the car’s details, the agreed-upon price, date of sale, and both parties’ names and signatures. It’s your legal proof of purchase, meaning it’s your best friend if anything about the sale is disputed later.

MOT certificate and road tax status

Even though MOTs are digital, get confirmation of its current status because it’s illegal to drive on public roads without a valid MOT. As for road tax, it doesn't carry over (the seller gets refunded if you’re buying used), so you’ll need to tax the vehicle yourself before driving it away. You can do this instantly online using the V5C/2 slip at gov.uk/vehicle-tax.

Warranty documents (if any)

If you're buying from a dealership, chances are good the car comes with a manufacturer’s or dealer warranty. You might also have third-party warranty coverage.

We recommend reading the fine print: look at duration, mileage limits, and what parts or systems are actually covered.

Spare keys, manuals and locking wheel nut code

Easy to forget, but incredibly useful:

• Ask for all spare keys.
• Make sure the vehicle handbook is included.
• Get the locking wheel nut code in case you need to change a tyre.

These small details make a big difference later and they’re expensive to replace if you don’t get them now.

What to do immediately after buying a car

You’ve got the keys, the paperwork and hopefully a great big a grin on your face. But you’re still not quite done yet. There are X final steps to make sure you’re driving legally and avoiding fines.

1. Tax your vehicle.

It’s your legal responsibility, not the seller’s, to tax the car as soon as you buy it. Road tax doesn’t transfer with ownership, so even if it was taxed yesterday, it’s no longer valid in your name.

You can do tax your vehicle instantly online using the new keeper slip at gov.uk/vehicle-tax.

2. Insure the car.

Driving without insurance is illegal and carries serious penalties that include fines, points on your licence and the car being seized.
Set up your insurance policy to start on the day you collect the car. If you’ve already got a policy, you can usually switch it over or add the new car online or via a quick phone call.

And if you’re driving a new car off the lot, you can even purchase drive-away insurance, a kind of temporary insurance that covers you on your drive home while you wait to arrange a longer-term policy.

3. Check Congestion Charge and ULEZ compliance (if you’re driving in London).

If you live in or are heading into London, check whether your car meets Congestion Charge and ULEZ (Ultra Low Emission Zone) standards. This is easy; check your registration with this free ULEZ compliance checker and see if any charges apply.

Common pitfalls first-time buyers make with documentation

If we could go back and talk to our younger selves before buying our first car, we’d save mountains of stress with just one word: paperwork. Most people get tripped up not because they don’t care, but because they don’t know what really matters until it’s too late.

Now, we’re in the car business. We’ve bought and sold enough cars to know the pain of missing documents, dodgy sellers and DVLA headaches you could’ve avoided with one simple check.

So here’s what first-time buyers get wrong and how to make sure you're not one of them:

Accepting incomplete or outdated V5C

This one’s brutal. We’ve seen buyers walk away with a car and no clue the V5C logbook was outdated, marked as a duplicate or filled out improperly. If the seller’s name doesn’t match the registered keeper or key sections are missing, walk away. Without a proper V5C, you can’t tax the car, transfer ownership or prove it’s legally yours.

Overlooking fake MOT certificates

Yeah, people still try this (though it’s less and less common now that everything’s digitised). If you’re not paying attention, you’ll get stung.

Don’t accept a piece of paper at face value. Always check the MOT status online using the GOV.UK MOT checker. It takes 10 seconds and it shows the full history. If what the seller tells you doesn’t match what the database says, something’s off.

Not verifying outstanding finance on a used car

Just because someone has the car keys doesn’t mean they legally own it. If the car has outstanding finance, it belongs to the lender, not the seller. That means you could lose the car completely if they’re delinquent on their payments. £10-30 for an HPI check is nothing compared to that risk.

Forgetting to inform insurance of purchase or modifications

Buying the car is step one, getting covered is step zero. You legally need insurance the moment you take ownership and any mods (even basic ones) must be declared or your policy could be void. Call your insurer, update your policy and don’t assume “I’ll sort it later” is good enough.

Buying without a proper receipt from a private seller

Handshake deals are cool until something goes wrong. No receipt? You’ve got no proof the sale ever happened and no legal standing if you need to report fraud or make a claim. Always get a signed, dated receipt with full buyer/seller info, car details and the agreed sale price. It’s a five-minute job that could save you thousands.

What documents do I need to buy a car in the UK as a foreign national?

If you’re not a UK citizen, the process is nearly identical to buying as a UK resident. All you need is a valid UK address, a valid driving licence and proof of insurance.

Now… for the driving licence, that might complicate things a bit. If you don’t have a UK licence yet, how soon you need to get one depends on whether you’re from the EU/EEA or outside it.

• EU and EEA licences: You can drive in the UK with these until they expire. For example, Irish licence holders don’t need to exchange their licence at all.
• Other countries: You can legally drive in the UK for up to 12 months. After that, you will need to exchange it for a UK licence.

How do I verify if the V5C logbook is genuine?

Start with the basics:

• It should have a red cover (blue versions were phased out in 2012).
• It should not say "duplicate" in the top right unless clearly explained.
• Check that the VIN, registration number and colour match the car.
• The registered keeper’s name and address should match the seller’s (if you’re buying privately).

Also look for any signs of tampering. Missing pages, correction fluid and mismatched fonts are major red flags.

The bottom line

Finding the perfect vehicle is just half the battle. What you’re really worried about on the backend is getting the paperwork right from start to finish. If you show up unprepared or skip key checks, you’re opening yourself up to fines, delays and potentially buying a car that’s problematic.

Make sure you’ve got the right documents before browsing, verify everything the seller hands you and don’t drive off without insurance and tax in place. Take the five extra minutes here and there to double-check everything now and we guarantee you you’ll save yourself hours (and potentially thousands of pounds) down the line.